All right here, we can see the rust coming through, and this is the front, this is where the front of the garage is. So obviously it’s more exposed, it’s going to be. So this is where that main rebar break is.
So we’re going to grind this down. And I believe we’ve got a few feet of cracks are going to show itself in this area here. What happens is it gets underneath this paint, just wants to kind of bubble up. So I would wire brush it. If you want to paint the ceiling, just kind of whitewash it. So it’s not, you know, real. You want it to have a perm rating. You want it to breathe.
So in here, these are the tabs that we were talking about. So there’s really just these are spots where they’ve come back with some hydraulic cement just to patch. So we’ll come back over the top of that and as well as go down that with carbon.
See the Rebar Break
You can see the break here. What does the carbon do? The carbon makes it strong. That’s a good question. Carbon fibers, ten thousand psi. This is only three or four. So as long as we’ve taken care of our why, we’re in good shape.
You see this break? Yeah, happens here. Mm hmm. So when we get in here with a lot of light, we’re going to start to see what’s actually going on. So we’re going to be prepared to go ahead and hit. Those areas I don’t see there’s a spot over here, a couple feet.
Over here in this corner, I want a lot of time spent. This area has a lot of issues, so I went that pretty well to be carboned in. I just don’t want to have and let’s go ahead run down the snap-tie area. I don’t want any issues for it to want to walk its way, so.
The next pictures I’ll take video will be outside on the floor, and at that point on the top up there, we really don’t want to put carbon on the drive part. You’re going to just have a very high semanticist material to put on it because carbon wouldn’t be put there, would make it, wouldn’t look right. So we’re going to patch the top of the floor and that may require patching from time to time because concrete just doesn’t stick the concrete super well.
We will put in piece these events where it will stick better than normal. The big thing will be grinding down that rot so that we can coat it or it will continue to grow. So next picture will be outside.
If you think you have an issue with your foundation, contact us. We’re happy to answer your questions as honestly as we can.
The Drain System
First, we would remove what’s there. We would put a geotech style on the trench, which is fabric that allows water through, cleaning it as it moves.
Then, instead of using a crushed rock that has minus on it and (minus is what’s left on your hands from a crushed rock), and it can cause binding and clogging. Instead we use River Rock. So the fabric, river rock drain tile pipe, river rock, then plastic over the top of that.
So now you’re in good shape. If the walls were in rough shape, we’d put a cove plate in. But there’s no need for a cove plate for this house. We’re talking about 45′ of drain tile. That’s not a giant situation, 20 feet and 25 feet over here, pump in the back corner. There’s an outlet above it already. The panel is above it, so it’s grandfathered. We’re going to put a close base in and fix that discharge is already in place.
The walls are in good shape, we’re going to have to have the rest of the drywall taken up, though, because we’re going to do this right in this bottom sill board will get taken out. What’s really important about this now is that the sill board is treated lumber. It’s also important that it be glued down rather than nail it to the new concrete. Then you can scab into your two by fours and put the wall back up. You’ll be in good shape at that point in time.
What About the Floor?
We talked about the floor. You know, trying to do an epoxy floor is real easy to apply and it’s attractive. But if it isn’t clean and dry enough before installation, it could start to fog. Staining the concrete is usually a better idea in the long run. We could talk about that another time.
So we are going to bring the drain tile system from this area. We’re going to bring across the front of the house.
Adding a Patio
We talked about, a patio outside. Show this to the gentleman that’s going to be doing the front porch. The real issue is the big void that’s in the corner over here. We want to make sure that’s filled with a cementitious material and it is mechanically tamped, so that there are no voids. We want to stay away from rock because we don’t want to tomb a lot of water there. We know that 36 gallons of water is 300 pounds.
The strength is 3,000 pound force, (300 pounds, 10 percent). So we have to be very careful. So that’s the whole issue with the front porch. By keeping up with this, we’re going to be fine in the sense that we’re going to get rid of our hydrostatic pressure. But it’s just the idea of having cracks on the front wall.
We’ll put it in a folder and we’ll send it to you with the bill. We appreciate the opportunity.